The Kvenna doesn’t rush - it carves. Through quiet valleys, deep gorges, and wide, open plateaus, it charts a path across Hardangervidda’s southern edge. It’s not just a river - it’s a journey through some of the wildest, most untouched land in Norway. We’ve paddled it in early summer floods and late-season stillness. Each time, it offers something different: silence, challenge, and the kind of beauty that stays with you long after the trip ends.
The Kvenna River transforms throughout the summer - rushing and wild in early season (June), then calmer and shallower as late as September. We offer one guided tour in early summer for those seeking fast water and adventure, and another later in the season, ideal for those who prefer a more relaxed journey.
Wildlife at Hardangervidda
Hardangervidda is home to the largest population of wild reindeer in Europe. As we cover a wide stretch of the national park over the course of the week, the chances of spotting a herd are quite good.
Other wildlife we may encounter includes golden eagles, moose, and foxes - both red and, more rarely, arctic. Ptarmigans and a wide variety of other bird species are also common in the area. While brown bears are not typically found in this part of Norway, they do occasionally pass through.
The hike in
The Kvenna journey begins at the DNT hut Middalsbu, nestled at the end of Valldalen valley. From there, we follow a 10 km trail up through Vivassdalen to reach the first lake, Holmavatnet. It’s a demanding first day, with a steady climb and heavy packs - but we take it slow and make the full ascent over the course of the day.
Since we use packrafts, we can carry both gear and boats in a single trip. Those opting for canoes - even lightweight Ally canoes - will need to hike the route twice to bring up both gear and boats.
At Holmavatnet, we set up camp for the night. The lake’s western shore offers excellent tent spots—flat ground, soft moss, and stunning views across the water. By the time we arrive, the light is often fading, casting a golden glow or dipping behind the mountains. It’s usually a quick dinner, a quiet moment by the lake, and then straight to bed—resting up for the adventure ahead.
Start of the Kvenna River
Kvenna isn’t a single river, but a connected system of large and small lakes, wide slow-moving rivers, and narrow canyons with wild rapids. Technically, only the final stretch near Mogen is called the Kvenna. But from Holmavatnet in the west to Mogen in the east, the water follows a continuous path - one you can paddle from start to finish, with some portaging in between, depending on water levels and your ability to paddle.
After breakfast on day two, we prepare our packrafts and get ready for the first day of paddling. In early summer, Holmavatnet can still be covered in ice and snow - some years we’ve had to portage the entire lake. When conditions allow, we inflate the packrafts and tow them across the ice with our gear inside, avoiding the need to carry heavy packs on our backs. However, most years even the lakes at high altitude, such as Holmavatnet, are possible to paddle.
- Grade 1 is calm, flat water - ideal for beginners.
- Grade 2 is easy rapids with small waves and clear channels.
- Grade 3 is intermediate whitewater paddling with moderate, irregular waves, narrow passages and stronger currents.
- Grade 4 means powerful, turbulent rapids, tight turns, big drops - very advanced paddling.
- Grades 5 and 6 are extreme and unpredictable, with serious consequences if something goes wrong.
After Holmavatnet, we enjoy a beautiful stretch of calm river paddling before reaching Kvennsjøen—a large, open lake. How long it takes to cross depends entirely on the wind. In calm conditions, it’s one of the most peaceful sections of the journey. But with headwinds, it can become more demanding, and we’ll hug the shoreline to stay sheltered.
Sometimes we camp at the far end of the lake and spend the evening fishing—a perfect way to unwind after a day on the water.
River passages and small lakes
From Kvennsjøen, we enter a mosaic of small lakes and river passages - ranging from gentle rapids to calm, shallow stretches. Depending on water levels and how much time we spend scouting or portaging around rapids, this part of the journey can take anywhere from 3-4 hours to a full day.
We’re now deep in the heart of Hardangervidda National Park, surrounded by wild, untouched nature - a perfect time to say a few words about portaging with packrafts.
Portaging means carrying your packraft and gear between water sections - either to bypass a rapid that’s too dangerous or a stretch that’s too shallow to paddle. On the Kvenna trip, we do both. The length of a portage can range from a few hundred meters to several kilometers, and how many we do depends on current water conditions and the group’s experience level.
This is where packrafts truly shine. Unlike canoes or kayaks, a packraft is light enough to strap to your backpack, making portages far easier and more flexible in rugged terrain.
Depending on conditions, this stretch can offer some of the most enjoyable paddling of the entire Kvenna journey. The river eventually leads us to Hansbu, a small cluster of privately owned cabins nestled in the wilderness.
Along the way, we occasionally pass isolated cabins - some privately owned, others maintained by DNT (The Norwegian Trekking Association). Most of these were built long before Hardangervidda was designated a national park. Today, many of them see little use, and it’s not uncommon for us to go the entire trip without encountering another person.
Skyttarfossen and towards Sandvatn
From Hansbu, we may need to complete one or more portages - depending on conditions - before reaching Sandvatn. At the western end of the lake, where the water flows out from Skyttarfossen, there’s a beautiful campsite with space for several tents. If it’s getting late in the afternoon, we’ll camp here. Otherwise, we paddle across to the eastern shore, where there’s another excellent campsite, this one featuring a sandy beach right in front of the tents.
From Sandvatn, we begin the longest portage since day one, descending toward Gunleiksbuvatnet. The elevation drops nearly 50 meters along this stretch, making it impossible to paddle. The surrounding landscape here on Hardangervidda grows noticeably more rugged and dramatic, with steeper mountains and increasingly challenging terrain.
The distinctive peak of Viernuten rises ahead - a clear sign that we’re approaching the end of our paddle.
The stretch across Gunleiksbuvatnet is breathtaking - this is where Hardangervidda truly reveals its raw and untamed character. There’s a possible campsite at the eastern end of the lake if needed, but in most cases, we continue paddling to the next lake, Briskevatnet, and set up camp at its far end, right where the river Møra flows out. Interestingly, we cross this same river high up in the mountains during our Hardangervidda Winter Expedition.
From here, a longer portage awaits, taking us past the waterfall Honserudfossen and down to Vollevatn - the final lake we can paddle on during this journey.
It’s worth noting that good tent sites are limited around Vollevatn, and the terrain is often marshy in places, making it more difficult to find dry, level ground. This section of the Kvenna lies at a lower altitude, where the river and lakes are framed by scattered birch trees and areas of wetland - typical of the lower mountain zones in Norway.
The finale
As we descend into the lowlands, the chances of spotting a Norwegian moose increase significantly. In fact, we’ve once seen seven moose in just ten minutes in this area - so it pays to stay alert and keep your binoculars close at hand.
Vollevatn drains into a section known as Kvenna, a wild and steep river marked by multiple grade 5 and 6 rapids - far too dangerous to paddle. At Sandhøl, we pack up our rafts for the final time on this journey and continue on foot toward Mogen. That said, if conditions are just right, the last stretch of Vollevatn can offer a bit of excitement, with smaller rapids and gently flowing streams - perfect for a fun and playful end to our paddling adventure.
The final hike down to Mogen - a staffed tourist hut operated by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT) - is a spectacular conclusion to the journey. The trail winds alongside the powerful Kvenna river, offering close-up views of its dramatic descent through narrow gorges and over roaring rapids as it makes its way toward Møsvatn. The scenery here is both wild and serene, with lush vegetation and open vistas that offer a striking contrast to the high mountain plateaus we’ve left behind.
The hike typically takes a couple of hours at a relaxed pace, allowing us to fully enjoy the landscape without feeling rushed. If time allows and the Mogen hut is open, we often take a well-earned break there, perhaps enjoying a warm meal or a cup of coffee, before continuing on the final leg of the hike toward our boat pick-up at the shore of Møsvatn.
This last stretch is a peaceful wind-down, giving us a chance to reflect on the adventure as we return to civilization, feet a little sore, but minds and spirits deeply refreshed.
Harald Hovden is a Møsvatn local that offers excellent transportation services around the area.
Paddling the Kvenna is an experience that stays with you for life. To journey through one of Scandinavia’s last truly remote wilderness areas, up close and under your own power, is something rare and unforgettable. You’ll endure both sunshine and storms, drink straight from crystal-clear mountain streams, catch your own fish, and navigate a river that is as wild as it is beautiful. It’s not just an adventure; it’s a deep encounter with nature that leaves a lasting imprint on both body and soul.
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